The plain is wide in Söke and the agenda is packed: cotton, trade, market days, and a well-known strain of indecision. Everyone passes through on the way to Didim or Kuşadası — don't pass through, stay. The market's serious, the plain is the Aegean's granary, and further out there are ancient ruins and a lake view. Come evening, the 'so now what' question lands on the table, and the answer's as close as the dice in your pocket.